Hotel Grotta Dell’Angelo – two magnificent nights in Gubbio
The map of Gubbio fits in large format on a standard 8.5X11 – the smallest and most perfect place we stayed on the Umbrian Discovery
Me and my most awesome roomie, MichellePiazza della Signoria
Da Renato – insanely delicious charcuterie, custom sandwiches, cheeses & local fresh fruit & wine selection made a perfect picnic lunchI’m not afraid of heights, but this lift had me shaking. Literally. It is a 50 year old cage suspended off a mountain top and held up by a few cables, it caught the wind.
Abbey of Sant’ Ubaldo on top of Gubbio
Espresso on the mountain top of Gubbio
Climbing to the highest peak – breathtaking views of Umbria from this crumbly tower
Picnic in a little park halfway down
Olives, pears, cheese, prosciutto and Umbrian red
My favorite moment of this whole experience
Standing on the edge. Scared a tiny bit.
Truffles and wild boar. Mmmmm mmmm.
Three award winning generations of gelato makers adds up to repeat visits in 48 hours
Pistachio and alla crema. You know its the real deal by how fast it melts.
Coconut – my favorite flavor. Almost as good was the semi sweet coffee I snuck from Massimo.
The outdoor courtyard that was part of Hotel Grotta Dell’Angelo and the adjacent restaurant
Wild boar, olives and polenta Enough said.
Gubbio, Gubbio, Gubbio. This was my first Italian village after leaving Venice and it is now the place I want to live most, out of any place I have visited. Ever. It took half a day to get here between a long and short regional train, a bus that had decided it didn’t need to stop at 2:25PM and the bus that did stop at 3:15 PM and took us the remaining 25 minutes down the road. Not to worry this train stop (sorry I don’t remember the name) had a little empty bar with 3 EUR 600 ml bottles of Tuborg to keep us happy. Anyone who wasn’t finished when the bus arrived ahead of schedule just took it to go and finished it on board.
This is a town I
probably would never choose to visit if I had just seen it in a book. If it wasn’t for being on this specific Intrepid itinerary, I wouldn’t have heard of it. That would have been a huge loss.
There might not be anything more beautiful on earth than mountains, and Gubbio sits right into the side of one, at the base of Mt Ingino. It is mostly known for a crazy annual festival in May, Corsa Dei Ceri. I will let you YouTube that or better yet visit the top of Mt Ingino and go into the Abbey of Sant’ Ubaldo and watch the 45 minute video. It’s all in Italian, but you don’t need to understand a word to know what is happening.
Gubbio for me became a slow paced, breath of glorious mountain air. With streets closed early evening and chairs set up all around for happy hour. Big burly bartenders with an endless supply of little pizzas, sandwiches and other delicious tidbits. Lamb and rabbit roasted over enormous wooden embers. Gelato that can only be described as frozen butter, perfection in a plastic dish. Cobblestone streets and winding stairs that lead from one breathtaking view to the next. Peace and quiet. Mountains to climb, with espresso and random white horses to hand-feed hay to at the top. New flavors in proteins never eaten before – wild boar I love you.
If you ever get the chance, go. If I ever get the chance, I’ll be back.
Next up – Assisi!